Most visitors who venture out to the islands don't make it beyond Inishmór (Árainn) and its main attraction, Dún Aengus, the stunning stone fort perched perilously on the island's towering cliffs. The arid landscape west of Kilronan (Cill Rónáin), Inishmór's main settlement, is dominated by stone walls, boulders, scattered buildings and the odd patch of deep-green grass and potato plants.
Tourism turns the wheels of the island's economy: an armada of tour vans greets each ferry and flight, offering a ride round the sights. As one local said: 'We move 'em through like a conveyor belt.' Happily, you can set your own pace.
Inishmór is 14.5km long and 4km at its widest stretch. All boats arrive and depart from Kilronan, on the southeastern side of the island. One principal road runs the length of the island, intersected by small lanes and paths of packed dirt and stone.