Sariska Reserve & National Park

Introducing Sariska Reserve & National Park

Lying in a wooded valley, a tangle of greenery against red clay, Sariska Reserve & National Park (Indian/foreigner Rs 25/200, jeep Rs 125, video Rs 200; 7am-4pm Oct-Mar, 6am-4.30pm Apr-Sep) has been at the centre of controversy since 2005 when the WWF produced a damning report that suggested that the tigers had been poached – a sad indictment of Project Tiger (who’ve been in charge here since 1979) and the sanctuary.

The sanctuary is still worth visiting though – the 800 sq km (including a core area of 498 sq km) is home to sambars (deer), chitals (spotted deer), wild boars and lots of birdlife. It also has some fascinating, beautiful sights within and around its boundaries, including the spectacular hilltop Kankwari Fort (22km from the Forest Reception Office), and Bhangarh, a deserted, well-preserved 17th-century city that’s famously haunted. If you take a longer tour then you can ask to visit one of these sights, or Bhangarh can be reached by a bus that runs through the sanctuary to nearby Golaka village (Rs 25).

However, without the big draw of the tigers, safaris here are overpriced, and the park’s popularity with tourists is suffering.

Unlike most national parks, Sariska opens year-round, although the best time to spot wildlife is November to March. You’ll see most wildlife in the evening.

It’s possible to go by private car into the park, but these are only allowed on sealed roads. The best way is to visit is by jeep. Diesel/petrol jeeps cost Rs 800/1000 for three hours, or Rs 1700/2000 for a full day, and take a maximum of five people. Bookings can be made at the Forest Reception Office (2841333). Note that you’ll also have to pay an admission charge for the jeep. The park is free for Indians visiting the Hanuman temple on Tuesdays and Saturdays (8am to 3pm), but this policy is under review. Chances are it will still be busy on these days.

RTDC Hotel Tiger Den (2841342; dm Rs 50, s/d from Rs 600/700;) is in a quasi-Soviet block, but is backed by a green, rambling garden. Rooms are drab, but have balconies. Bring a mosquito net or repellent.

Sariska Tiger Heaven (224815; r with/without Rs 1800/1500;) is an isolated place about 5km west of the bus stop; it offers free pick-up. Rooms have big beds and windowed alcoves, and are set in five acres of peaceful grounds. It’s a tranquil, if overpriced place, to stay. It arranges jeeps and guides to the park.

There are frequent buses from Alwar (local/express Rs 12/14, 1½/one hour, at least hourly); these head on to Jaipur (local/express Rs 55/65). Buses stop in front of the Forest Reception Office.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009