Unless you're transiting via its airport (70km from Kohima), you would find little reason to linger in this flat, uninspiring commercial centre of Nagaland. Of the central hotels, De Oriental Dream is the smartest option. Air India flies to Kolkata, Guwahati and Imphal. The NST bus station runs services to Kohima (₹85, three hours, hourly) and Imphal (₹220, seven hours, 6am).
Forty-five kilometres north of Kohima is the village of Tuophema, a possible overnight stop en route to Mon. The highlight here is the Tuophema Tourist Village, where you sleep in comfortable traditionally styled Naga thatched huts, and eat traditional food in a glass-paned cafeteria (meals ₹180 to ₹260). Notify them of your arrival in advance or it will probably be closed.
The most unspoiled part of the state, Northern Nagaland is a rugged and divinely beautiful country where antiquity still thrives in tribal villages composed of thatched longhouses, many of whose inhabitants continue to live a fairly traditional hunting and farming lifestyle.
Kisama Heritage Village
This open-air museum hosts the annual Hornbill Festival, and has a representative selection of traditional Naga houses and morungs (bachelor dormitories) with full-size log drums. Within the complex is the World War II Museum, which has a collection of war memorabilia and flexi-timings. Kisama is 10km from central Kohima along the well-surfaced Imphal road.