Tripura’s only 'city', this low-key settlement with its semi-rural atmosphere feels like an India of yore. It's a congested but relaxed place, and in many ways feels more like a small town than a state capital. The pace of life is slow, and in the absence of rampant commercial tourism, people are much more likely to welcome you as a guest than a gullible traveller. Apart from the town's main sights, there are several royal mausoleums decaying quietly on the riverbank behind Battala market. To get to them, walk west down HGB Rd, turn left at Ronaldsay Rd and right along the riverbank. Be discrete as the burning ghats are located nearby.