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Introducing Siolim

The large village of Siolim, lying on the road north between the traveller epicentres of Anjuna and Arambol, is often overlooked by travellers, due to its riverside location some way from the nearest beach. But if you’re looking for a change from sea and sand, it makes a pleasant place to stay, with lots of budget and midrange-priced houses for rent (just wander about a bit, and look out for handwritten signs) and a scattering of top-end heritage hotels.

Siolim is home to an atmospheric daily market near the ferry landing stage on the banks of the Chapora River, where you can watch women open mussel shells at a speed that will impress. On Wednesday mornings another small market (7.30-10am), full of homegrown produce, sets up near central St Anthony Church, a building which dates back to the 16th century.