If it’s a beach paradise you’re after, you’ll probably be disappointed with what’s awaiting you in Colva. A large concrete roundabout marks the end of the beach road and the entrance to the beach, filled with day-trippers, package tourists and listless hawkers. The main beach drag is lined with dreary stalls and shabby cafes; sure, it’s got all the material needs you’re seeking, but as far as atmosphere goes it’s sorely lacking.
Perhaps the biggest reason to stay at Colva (or Benaulim, a touch south) is its central location if you’re keen to explore this part of the coast (which stretches north as far as Velsao and south as far as the mouth of the Sal River at Mobor), which in many parts is empty and gorgeous. The inland road that runs this length is perfect for gentle scootering, with lots of picturesque Portuguese mansions and whitewashed churches along the way.