Twelve kilometres south of the turn-off to Cabo da Rama (and 8km north of Palolem), the coast road passes the small village and spectacular beachfront of Agonda, a gorgeous 2km of white sand and a favourite with visiting olive ridley marine turtles, who are protected courtesy of a forestry department-staffed beach shack, and whose buried eggs are cordoned off for their safety.
Over the last few years Agonda has experienced a sharp rise in popularity, with ever more beachfront shack and hut operations lining its coconut groves behind the beach. But compared to somewhat hectic Palolem further south, the pace remains slow and the wide beach relatively empty – partly because the surf here can be fierce and is rarely good for swimming. Indeed, it’s almost, these days, a taste of Palolem Past.
If you’re looking for the ultimate laid-back experience, spending most of your time with a book or upside-down in a yoga asana and with little-to-no nightlife, Agonda’s an ideal place to be. There’s lots of foreigner-run yoga, meditation and ayurveda set-ups, and you’ll find no end of daily classes and courses on offer. Keep an eye out for signs detailing the season’s latest offerings posted around the Fatima Restaurant, and on lamp posts and telegraph poles the length of the beachside road. It is worth noting that there’s nowadays an ATM in Arambol, just beside the church crossroads.