Betla (Palamau) National Park

Introducing Betla (Palamau) National Park

Home to the world’s first tiger census in 1932 and now part of Project Tiger, this undisputed natural gem of the state is 140km west of Ranchi and is one of the best places in India to see wild elephants, though tiger sightings are comparatively rare. The entire Palamau Sanctuary covers around 1026 sq km, while the core area of 232 sq km was declared as Betla National Park in 1989. Pure stands of sal forest, rich evergreens, teak trees and bamboo thickets are home to some 37 tigers, 62 leopards, 210 elephants and 249 bison. There are several rickety observation towers for the brave to climb and lay low, while watching wildlife in silence. Living among the animals are eight local tribes spread across 200 small villages. This area was also the seat of power in the Chero dynasty and two of its 16th-century forts still exist in the jungle.

While open year-round, the best time to visit the park (06562-222650; admission per vehicle Rs 80, camera/video Rs 50/300; 5am-7pm) is October through April. If you can stand the heat, May is a prime time for tiger-spotting as the forest cover is reduced and the animals venture out in search of waterholes. Jeep safaris (per hr about Rs 200) can be arranged privately at the park gate. You must also hire a local guide (per hour Rs 20) to bring in your vehicle.

The park offers elephant safaris (per hr up to 4 people Rs 100) that take you off the vehicle tracks and into the jungle where you get an unparalleled look at the park’s flora and fauna.

The government-run Van Vihar tourist complex (06567-226513; d Rs 400, with AC Rs 700; ) is the best accommodation around the park entrance and it’s the only option open all year. Spacious rooms are clean, bright and look onto the gardens – some have balconies. Jharkhand Tourism also runs the basic Tourist House (dm Rs 100).

The nearest town to the park entrance is Daltonganj, 25km away. There are five daily buses between Betla and Daltonganj (Rs 14, one hour), or you can arrange a taxi for around Rs 200. Daltonganj is connected to Ranchi by bus (Rs 85, six hours, hourly). Alternatively, organise a tour through a Ranchi travel agency that will take you directly to the park. Suhana Tour and Travels has two-day trips for Rs 2500 per person, including transport, accommodation and safari, or longer trips on demand. This isn’t a bad option considering the safety issue in this isolated and lawless part of the state. In any case, it’s imperative you call the park for security advice before leaving.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009