Introducing Middle & North Andaman

The Andaman Trunk Rd runs north from Port Blair to Bharatang Island and Middle Andaman – both linked by small roll-on roll-off ferries – then onto North Andaman linked by road bridges. It’s very slow going, but consider at least the northern part of the road – say between the jetties at Rangat and Diglipur – as an alternative to taking the ferry in both directions. Relentlessly thick jungle opening to mangrove-fringed waterways with only occasional cultivated clearings make this a spectacularly lush and green journey.

But there's a negative side to riding the ATR: the road cuts through the homeland of the Jarawa and has brought the tribe into incessant contact with the outside world. Modern India and tribal life do not seem able to coexist - every time Jarawa and settlers interact, misunderstandings have led to friction, confusion and, at worst, violent attacks and death. Indian anthropologists and indigenous rights groups like Survival International have called for the ATR to be closed; its status continues to be under review at time of writing. At present, vehicles are permitted to travel only in convoys at set times from 6am to 3pm. Photography is strictly prohibited, as is stopping or any other interaction with the Jarawa people - who are becoming increasingly reliant on handouts from passing traffic.

You can get to Rangat, in Middle Andaman, several times a week from Port Blair or Havelock Island by ferry (Rs 80/25, nine hours) or daily by bus (Rs 70, eight hours). Hawksbill Nest (279022; four-bed dm Rs 600, d without/with AC Rs 450/850; ) is about 15 minutes north of Rangat, and any northbound bus will drop you there; bookings must be made at A&N Tourism in Port Blair. Hawksbill turtles do nest on the beaches of nearby Cuthbert Bay between November and February.