The first thing you might notice about Trikala (tree-kah-lah) are the bicycles. Half the town, young and old, seems to be pedalling around, and in no particular hurry either. Every September the town declares a two-day holiday from cars, just to keep the free-wheeling spirit alive. Roughly halfway between Karditsa and Kalambaka, Trikala was once ancient Trikki, and home to Asclepius, the god of healing. A statue honouring the mythic doctor stands on a small bridge by the main square. Trikala is an attractive and bustling agricultural centre, and serves as a gateway to the South Pindos mountain resorts to the west.