Unusual to say the least, Patmos (Πάτμος) has a distinctly spiritual presence. It drew an exiled St John here and delivered to him the apocalyptic visions that formed the Bible’s Revelations. Contemporary visitors have a rosier time thanks to its abundance of wild beaches, remote tavernas and the stylish pull of Skala, its pretty harbour town. But perhaps the real ace is the magical mountaintop village of Hora, drawing hordes of Orthodox and Western Christians who make their pilgrimage to see the cave of St John. July through September Skala is buzzing with a cosmo cast of Italians, Athenians and other Europeans as well as the odd wall-eyed rock star. Greener than any of its neighbours, with gas-blue coves and rolling hills, leaving Patmos is always a wrench.