In AD 95 St John the Divine received a vision in a cave and wrote the sinister Book of Revelations here. Exuding a bewitching spirituality, Patmos is special. No, really, David Bowie thinks so, as do the thousands of pilgrims who annually travel to the whitewashed sanctity of hilltop Hora; scattered with crow-black pensioners, galleries, fine boutiques and tavernas.
As one free-diver commented: ‘The island either rejects you or holds on to you.’ And from the moment you enter Hora’s 10th-century monastery with its diabolical friezes of demons and hell, you’ll either be creeped or enraptured. Patmos also has more than its fair share of gas-blue coves, green mountains and fine-pebble beaches, while its stylish harbour of Skala buzzes and is full of tasteful boutiques.