Entertainment in Provence
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A
Les Deux Garçons
Cézanne and Zola once lingered in this classic brasserie/café, but it rests on its laurels: best for a drink or small bite.
reviewed
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B
Metal Café
Another one of Marseille's 'in' choices, Metal Café sits at the foot of the staircase linking cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves with rue Sainte. Look for the suitably steely grey door and expect an equally chic-industrial interior. The only thing that's not metal, thankfully, is the music.
Look for the steely grey door at the foot of the staircase linking cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves with rue Sainte.
reviewed
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C
Ballet Preljocaj
The Ballet Preljocaj is the redident dance company at the architecturally daring Centre Chorégraphique National. The cutting-edge Preljocaj, founded in 1984, presents some of Europe's most creative - and at times shocking - works. Performance schedules are posted on the company's website; its other programmes (when not on tour) include dance workshops for adults and children.
reviewed
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D
Woolloomooloo
Inspired by the Australian bush, this eclectic Avignon institution, in a former printing house adjoining an old paper mill, embraces timber, antiques and a down-to-earth, authentic air that extends to its vegetarian-leaning menu. Get into to the spirit with a glass of the house speciality, Ti-Punch, packing Caribbean rum, lime juice, candied fruits, and spice-infused syrup.
reviewed
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La Maronnaise
This hipsters' hangout at Les Goudes on Cap Croisette is day-night event. You'll need to arrive early to snag a sun lounge or earlier still for a patch of sand on the tiny beach, before dancing under the stars till dawn. To keep you going, you can have lunch and dinner on the seaside terrace. Take bus 19 from the Rond Point du Prado metro stop on av du Prado.
reviewed
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E
Grand Café Grégoire
Place de la Bouquerie abounds with cafés like the gregarious Grand Café Grégoire, which opens out the back to a terraced garden filled with umbrellas, and with a billiards table inside. Rue St-Pierre is another hot spot.
reviewed
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F
La Caravelle
Look up or miss this standout, upstairs hideaway, styled with rich wood and leather, zinc bar and yellowing vintage murals. If it's warm, snag a coveted spot on the portside terrace. On Friday, live jazz plays 9pm to midnight.
reviewed
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G
La Compagnie des Comptoirs
Also incorporating a snazzy restaurant wrapped around an 18th-century courtyard, sink back on raised Moroccan-style beds beneath the arches of this former convent cloister. Cutting-edge DJs mix it up on weekends.
reviewed
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H
L'OM Café
If you haven't managed to bag tickets to watch the city's football team play, this is the place to come and watch the game (unless you want to support the rival team, in which case you should leave Marseille).
reviewed
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I
Utopia Bar
At the foot of the imposing Palais des Papes walls, l’Utopia has something of a thespian bent with its red velvet benches, beautiful glass verandah and great mirrors throughout. Perfect for a glass of wine.
reviewed
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L’Unic
On one of the town’s most charming squares, timeless and reliable, it serves anything from breakfast to aperitifs. Pensioners love it for the postmarket slot; students crowd it to kick-start their evening.
reviewed
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J
Mon Bar
This Parisian-looking bistro has been going for 70 years and looks set to go for another 70. It’s a neighbourhood institution; don’t expect more than a scowl if you try to order your coffee in English.
reviewed
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Le Mistral
If anyone’s awake past midnight, chances are they’ll wind up at this happening basement club, with three bars and a dance floor. DJs spin house, R&B, techno and rap. For a table, buy a bottle.
reviewed
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K
Espace Julien
Rock, opérock, alternative theatre, reggae, hip-hop, Afro-groove and other cutting-edge entertainment all appear on the bill here; the website lists upcoming gigs and cover charges.
reviewed
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L
Red Lion
Looking like someone picked it up from central London and plonked it down in Avignon, this cherry-red English pub has gigs a couple of nights a week, and theme nights a couple of times a month.
reviewed
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M
Bar Sextius
With live music and DJs playing house, reggae and raga, depending on the night, Bar Sextius is le local gathering spot - ask the in-the-know crowd here about Aix's latest in-spots.
reviewed
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N
Théâtre du Jeu de Paume
Théâtre du Jeu de Paume was built in 1756 on the site of a royal tennis court; the curtain rises in the ornate Italianate auditorium most evenings from June to September.
reviewed
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O
L'Intermédiare
Famed for its free live-music sessions ranging from blues to breaking new bands, the intimate L'Intermédiare is a gathering spot for Marseille's artists, musos and writers.
reviewed
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P
Au Petit Nice
Cheap and cheerful: €2 beers in a happening courtyard café with a youthful, diverse crowd. (NB: If you’re taking a taxi, this is not the hotel of the same name.)
reviewed
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Q
MP Bar
The website www.petitfute-gay.com (in French) has comprehensive coverage of Marseille's gay and lesbian scene, which revolves around the perennial favourite, MP Bar.
reviewed
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Red Sky
Looking as though someone picked it up in central London and plonked it in Avignon, this cherry-red English pub has gigs, theme nights and plenty of sport on TV.
reviewed
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R
L'Opéra Café
DJs keep the beats coming at this contemporary café with a thespian bent in the centre of action-station place de l'Horloge. It serves both lunch and dinner.
reviewed
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L’Australian Café Walla Beer
Arles is pretty quiet at night outside of ferias, but this place is popular for an evening drink on the terrace overlooking bd Georges Clemenceau.
reviewed
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S
Le Cid Café
DJs keep the beats coming at this fluoro-lit, happening joint on Place de l’Horloge. Locals love it and so do visitors keen for a piece of the action.
reviewed
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T
Dame Noir
A crowd of hip cats spills onto the sidewalk from this neighbourhood bar. DJs spin Thursday to Saturday. No sign; look for the red lights by the door.
reviewed
