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Introducing Nanuya Lailai

This is it, folks – home to that celebrity of all the Yasawas’ beaches, the Blue Lagoon. Crystalline and glossy, it doesn’t disappoint the bevy of swimmers, snorkellers, divers, and people on cruise boats or yachts who dabble in its gorgeous, lucent depths. Actually, it’s not dissimilar to many of the lagoons scattered around the Yasawas. The snorkelling here is rich in fish but the coral has taken a hammering over recent years. Travellers are advised by signs, and enforced at times by security staff, to stay clear of Nanuya Levu as well as the section of Blue Lagoon beach used by Blue Lagoon Cruises.

The settlement of Enadala is on the eastern side of Nanuya Lailai, and the beach here is buffeted by strong winds. Connecting the Blue Lagoon and Enadala beaches, and snaking over the mass of gently sloping hills of the island’s interior, is a well-trodden track. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from one beach to the other by using this track or following the coastline at low tide. But what could possibly draw anyone away from the Blue Lagoon’s bright water? Cake could. Lo’s Tea Shop – a blue shack on the edge of the water – sells banana cake and chocolate cake with sugary sauce for $2.50 a slice. Eat inside astride benches or, better still, outside with your toes in the sand. Both Lo’s and Grandma’s Shell Market, a few doors down, sell seashells by the seashore (along with sarongs and jewellery). Opening hours are Fiji time.

Diving is provided by Westside Watersports at Nanuya Island Resort.