Chuuk is colourful, lively and rough around the edges. Houses are commonly painted in several bright contrasting colours, and on hot days village women sit bare-breasted in streams doing laundry and young children run around naked. Speedboats zip back and forth across the lagoon and from Weno you can watch the sun set behind the Faichuk Islands, often with a brilliant light show.
Chuuk's ace in the hole is its sunken war wrecks, which attract devoted divers from all over the world. An entire Japanese fleet rests on the lagoon floor - a bloody moment in time captured forever in an underwater museum (save for the creeping rust). Together, these wrecks represent the largest naval loss in history.