Beni Suef to Qena

Introducing Beni Suef to Qena

'He who rides the sea of the Nile must have sails woven of patience'. Egyptian Proverb

In a hurry to reach the treasures of Luxor and the pleasures of the south, it is easy to dismiss this first segment of Upper Egypt. But the less-visited parts of Egypt almost always repay the effort of a visit and the valley from Cairo to Luxor is no exception.

The green and brown land south of Cairo is still worked by hand, often using tools known to the ancients, although even in remote rural areas of the Nile Valley, farmers must learn to grapple with the issues of modernity, particularly problems with pumps and water shortages.

The region’s sprawling provincial towns were the scene of considerable violence during the Islamist unrest of the 1990s and although they may no longer deserve their reputation for trouble, they are considerably less developed than cities such as Cairo and Luxor.

But however much a backwater this part of the valley is now, it still carries vivid reminders of the huge role it played in Egypt’s destiny. From the lavishly painted tombs of early provincial rulers to the remains of the doomed city Akhetaten and the monasteries of the early Christian period, these sites are reminders of the area’s past importance. Close to Qena is Dendara, one of the most complete surviving temple complexes. But most mysterious of all is Abydos, the supposed resting place of the god Osiris’ head and a sacred Egyptian burial ground.

Because of the violence of the 1990s, security remains tight in places and individual travel is often difficult, sometimes impossible.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009