Getting around
Ecuador has an efficient transportation system, and because of its small size, you can usually get anywhere and everywhere quickly, easily and enjoyably.
Boat
Canoe
Boat transportation is common in Ecuador and can be divided into several types.
The most common boat is the motorized canoe, which acts as a water taxi or bus along the major rivers of the Oriente (especially on the Río Napo) and parts of the northern coast. Most people experience this unique form of transport during a tour in the Amazon, as motorized canoes are often the only way to a rain forest lodge.
These canoes often carry as many as three dozen passengers. Generally, they’re long in shape and short on comfort. Seating is normally on hard, low wooden benches which accommodate two people each. Luggage is stashed forward under a tarpaulin, so carry hand baggage containing essentials for the journey. The most important piece of advice: bring seat padding. A folded sweater or towel will make a world of difference on the trip.
Pelting rain and glaring sun are major hazards, and an umbrella is excellent defense against both. Bring suntan lotion or wear long sleeves, long pants and a sun hat – people have been literally unable to walk because of second-degree burns on their legs after six hours of exposure to the tropical sun. When the sun disappears or when the rain begins, it can get chilly, so bring a light jacket.
Insect repellent is useful during stops along the river. Bottled water and something to snack on will complete your hand baggage.
Once you’re off the main branch of a river, you may have to navigate smaller tributaries in a paddled (or motorized) dugout canoe. The paddled dugout canoe is one of the most divine modes of transportation because it moves along stealthily and silently. Tours from a jungle lodge usually involve paddled dugout canoes.
Private yacht
The idea of sailing your own yacht around the Galápagos might sound splendid, but to do so, you need a license, and licenses are all limited to Galápagos boats. If you arrive at the islands in your own boat, you will have to moor the boat in Puerto Ayora and hire one of the local boats to take you around. The Ecuadorian authorities give transit permits of seven days for sailors on their own boats. Longer stays may be possible if you are moored and not sailing.
Other boats
Boat transportation is common in Ecuador and can be divided into several types.
In the Galápagos, you have a choice of traveling in anything from a small sailboat to a cruise ship complete with air- conditioned cabins and private bathrooms. Passenger ferries run infrequently between the islands, offering the cheapest means of interisland transport. Only folks traveling around the islands independently (ie not on a cruise) need consider these.
In addition to the dugout canoes of the Oriente, one cruise ship, Amazon Manatee Explorer, makes relatively luxurious passages down Río Napo.
Finally, some rivers are crossed by ferries that vary from a paddled dugout taking one passenger at a time, to a car ferry capable of moving half-a-dozen vehicles. These are sometimes makeshift transportation to replace a bridge that has been washed out, is being repaired or is still in the planning stages.
Bus & tram
Bus
In terms of scope and affordability, Ecuador’s bus system is impressive, to say the least. Buses are the primary means of transport for most Ecuadorians, which guarantees buses to just about anywhere. They can be exciting, cramped, comfy, smelly, fun, scary, sociable and grueling, depending on your state of mind, where you’re going and who’s driving.
In terms of safety, sure, you’re safer at home. To avoid mincing words, the majority of Ecuadorian bus drivers are maniacs. They pass on blind turns, they ride the air-brakes till they smoke, they hit the gas going downhill and they race other buses for fun. But, to their credit, most are amazingly skillful drivers. If they get too crazy, people on the bus start to complain, which can either settle the driver down or piss him off and make him drive faster. Overall, buses are a wonderful experience, and, more often than not, you’re in good hands.
Every major city and nearly every sizable town has a main terminal terrestre (bus terminal) for most arriving and departing buses. Almost all are walking distance or a short cab ride from the town’s center. Smaller towns are occasionally served by passing buses, in which case you have to walk from the highway into town. It’s usually only a short walk, since only the smallest towns lack terminals.
If you’re traveling lightly, take your luggage inside the bus with you. If your luggage has to go on top or in a luggage compartment, pack your gear in garbage bags in case of rain. The luggage compartment is sometimes filthy or leaky, so using a protective sack is a good idea (though not crucial if rain is out of the question). Many locals use grain sacks as luggage; you can buy them for a few cents in general stores or markets and toss your bag inside it.
On average, bus journeys cost about $1 per hour of travel. Remember to always have your passport handy when you’re going anywhere by bus, as they are frequently stopped for checks. This is especially true in the Oriente.
Classes
There are rarely classes to choose from – whatever’s available is the class you ride. Most autobuses (buses) are nondescript passenger (as opposed to school-type) buses, and they rarely have a bathroom on board unless they’re traveling over about four hours. Some of the long-haul rides between large cities have air-conditioned buses with on-board toilets, though are few and far between. When a bus does have a bathroom, you usually have to ask the driver’s assistant for the key. If a bus doesn’t have a toilet, and you’re not going to make it to the next stop without your bowels exploding, simply put a panicked look on your face and tell the driver, ‘necesito orinar’ (‘I need to urinate’). and he’ll know to stop and let you out. It’s not a big deal.
Long-distance buses
Long-distance buses usually stop for a 20-minute meal break at the appropriate times. The food in terminal restaurants may be somewhat basic, so if you’re a picky eater you should bring food with you.
On remote routes, full buses allow passengers to travel on the roof. This can be fun, with great views but minimal comfort!
Reservations & schedules
Most companies have scheduled departures, but they change often and may not always be adhered to. If a bus is full, it might leave early. Conversely – and this one will surely drive you bonkers – an almost empty bus may spend half an hour dando vueltas (driving around), with the driver’s assistant yelling out of the door in the hope of attracting more passengers. The upside is, you’ll carry these songlike hollers (¡Saquisilí, Saquisilí, venga venga Saquisilí!) home like souvenirs and hear them for years to come. The larger terminals often have traveler information booths that can advise you about routes, fares and times.
For rides over four hours, you can usually purchase a ticket up to eight days in advance. Tickets must be purchased in person at the bus terminal. Except on weekends and during vacations, you’ll rarely have trouble getting a ticket, but it never hurts to buy one a day in advance or arrive an hour or two early. Doing so also allows you to score a better seat. The suspension at the back of a bus is usually far worse than anywhere else, so try to avoid the back rows altogether. Anyone over 180cm (6ft) should buy tickets in advance and ask for a seat with mucho espacio (lots of space), usually toward the front.
Bus companies with frequent departures (twice an hour or more) usually only sell tickets for the next departure.
Bus
Local buses are usually slow and crowded, but they are also very cheap. You can get around most towns for $0.20 to $0.25. Local buses often travel to nearby villages, and riding along is a good, inexpensive way to see the area.
Outside of Quito, the concept of a fixed bus stop is pretty much nonexistent. Buses stop (or at least come to a slow roll) when people flag them down. When you want to get off a local bus, yell ‘¡Baja!,’ which means ‘Down!’ (as in ‘the passenger is getting down’). Another favorite way of getting the driver to stop is by yelling ‘¡Gracias!’ (‘Thank you!’) which is unmistakably polite.
Car & motorcycle
Driving a car or motorcycle in Ecuador definitely has its challenges. The main north–south artery, the one you’ll surely drive if you do any driving at all, is the Panamericana. This international highway, one of the world’s most famous roads, passes through Ecuador and is fairly well surfaced but not without its potholes, blind turns, and insanely fast bus and truck drivers. It’s quite an experience, to say the least.
Hire
Few people rent cars in Ecuador, mainly because public transport makes getting around so easy. To get to really out-of-the-way places, however, a rental car can come in handy. Most of the international car rental companies, including Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com) and Localiza (www.localiza.com.ec), have outlets in Ecuador, but it is difficult to find any agency outside of Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca.
To rent a car you must be 25 years old and have a credit card, a valid driver’s license and a passport. Occasionally a company will rent to someone between 21 and 25 years old, though it may require a higher deposit. Typical rates start at around $40 per day for a compact car, but can go over $100 for a 4WD vehicle (high clearance can be a life saver during ventures off the beaten track). It’s well worth shopping around for the best price. As you do, be sure to ask if the quoted rate includes seguro (insurance), kilometraje libre (unlimited kilometres) and IVA (tax); most likely it won’t.
As with renting a car anywhere, make sure existing damage to the vehicle is noted on the rental form. Be absolutely certain there’s a spare tire (with air!) and a jack. Rental cars are targets for thieves, so don’t leave your car parked with bags or other valuables in sight. When leaving your car for any period, especially overnight, park it in a guarded lot.
Motorcycle rental is hard to find in Ecuador. One of the only options is Baños where 250cc Enduro-type motorcycles are available for about $10 per hour or $40 per day. Riders with their own machines will find an endless amount of information at www.horizonsunlimited.com.
Some international rental agencies will make reservations for you from your home country.
Insurance
Car rental companies offer insurance policies on their vehicles but they can carry a hefty deductible – anywhere between $1000 and $3500, depending on the company – so be sure you read the fine print. Even if an accident is not your fault, you will likely be responsible for the deductible in the event of a collision.
Train
Ecuador’s rail system is now extremely limited and consists primarily of two tourist trains. The most famous is the dramatic descent from Alausí along La Nariz del Diablo (The Devil’s Nose), a spectacular section of train track that was one of the world’s greatest feats of railroad engineering. The second is the weekend train excursion between Quito and the Area de Recreación El Boliche, near Cotopaxi. Passengers are allowed to ride on the roof of some cars, and these are very popular trips.
Reservations are generally not necessary for the El Boliche run. For the Devil’s Nose ride, you can buy your tickets a day in advance from the train station in Riobamba. There’s one class – roof class. Well, you can ride inside if you really want.
Tours
Whether you can stomach the idea or not, there are a great many places in Ecuador that are accessible only by taking an organized tour. This is not necessarily a bad thing – in fact, you end up learning a lot from a good guide. You don’t always have to put up with strangers either; some tour operators, particularly those offering climbing, horseback-riding or trekking tours, will send out a guide for as few as two people. Usually, however, the more people you can get to go with you, the cheaper the per-person rates will be.
If you’re short on time, the best place to organize a tour is Quito. A plethora of operators in the capital offer trips including Galápagos cruises, climbing and trekking tours, horseback riding, jungle tours, mountain-biking tours, hacienda tours, tours to major cities – you name it. There’s something on offer for every budget and every taste.
It was once cheapest to book a tour close to where you will be touring, and this is occasionally still true. For example, some travelers try to arrange a tour in the Galápagos from Puerto Ayora or Puerto Baquerizo Moreno or to the Oriente from Misahuallí or Coca. You may get lucky, but you may also face several problems. During the Galápagos’ high seasons, many boats are full and it may be difficult to find one available. During the low seasons (and at anytime in the Oriente), it may take several days to get a group of people together who are interested in doing the same thing. In the Oriente, the great majority of local guides now work for companies operating out of Quito, which means they’re hard to find. But again, it’s possible. You just have to allow yourself plenty of time to hang around to make it work. Towns throughout Ecuador have tour operators, and they usually cost about the same as trips sold in Quito.
The upside of going to a town in the Oriente and setting something up there is that you get a more local experience and you get to spend some time (for better or worse) in the jungle towns themselves, rather than just rushing through.
Tour costs vary tremendously depending on what your requirements are. The cheapest camping jungle tour can be as low as $40 per person, per day, while the most expensive lodges can be $200 per person per night, including all meals and tours. Climbs of the volcanoes average about $160 per person for a two-day climb. Galápagos boat cruises range from $700 to over $3000 per week, excluding air fare, taxes and entrance fees. Day tours out of Quito range from $25 to $80 per person per day.
Local transport
Taxi
Ecuadorian taxis come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but they are all yellow. Most taxis have a lit ‘taxi’ sign on top or a ‘taxi’ sticker in the windshield. Taxis often belong to cooperatives; the name and telephone number of the cooperative is usually printed on the door.
Always ask the fare beforehand, or you’ll be overcharged more often than not. Meters are rarely seen, except in Quito, where they are obligatory. A long ride in a large city such as Quito or Guayaquil shouldn’t go over $4. The minimum fare nearly everywhere is $1, and will be required to pay $1 in Quito even if the meter only says $0.80. Fares from international airports (Quito and Guayaquil) can be exorbitantly high if you’re not careful. On weekends and at night, fares are always about 25% to 50% higher. Taxis can be hard to flag down during rush hours.
You can hire a taxi for a day for about $40 to $60. Hiring a taxi for a few days is comparable to renting a car, except that you don’t have to drive. But you will have to pay for the driver’s food and room. Some tour companies in Quito rent 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers.
Air
Airlines in Ecuador
Ecuador’s most important domestic airline is TAME, followed by Icaro and al. Except for TAME’s flight from Tulcán to Cali, Colombia, none fly internationally. All three enjoy safety records on par with most world airlines, although some of the planes look a little old.
With the exception of flying to the Galápagos Islands, internal flights are generally fairly cheap, rarely exceeding $70 for a one-way ticket. All mainland flights are under an hour and often provide you with incredible views over the Andes. There is a two-tier pricing system on flights to and from the Oriente and to/from the Galápagos, on which foreigners pay more than Ecuadorians.
If you can’t get a ticket, go to the airport early and get on a waiting list – passengers often don’t show up. If you do have a reservation, reconfirm your flight 72 hours in advance.
Flights to most destinations originate in Quito or Guayaquil only. The following are Ecuador’s three passenger airlines with their reservation numbers in Quito:
AeroGal (02-292 0510-4; www.aerogal.com.ec) Serves Quito, Guayaquil, Cuenca, Isla Baltra (Galápagos) and Isla San Cristóbal (Galápagos).
Icaro (02-245 0928; www.icaro.com.ec) Serves Quito, Guayaquil, Cuenca, Manta, Coca, Lago Agrio and Esmeraldas.
TAME (02-290 9900-9; www.tame.com.ec) Serves Coca, Cuenca, Esmeraldas, Isla Baltra (Galápagos), Isla San Cristóbal (Galápagos), Guayaquil, Lago Agrio, Loja, Macas, Manta, Portoviejo, Quito, Tulcán and Cali (Colombia).
Bicycle
Each year a handful of cyclists attempt to ride from Alaska to Argentina, or any number of shorter long-distance rides, and manage to get through Ecuador just fine, despite the fact that road rules are few, bike lanes are nonexistent and roads are poor. Cycling in the Andes is strenuous, not only because of hill climbs but because of the altitudes. Mountain bikes are recommended, as road bikes don’t stand up to the poor road quality.
Bike shops are scarce outside of Quito, and those that do exist usually have a very limited selection of parts. Bring all important spare parts and tools from home. The country’s best mountain bike tour operators are in Quito and Riobamba.
Hire
Renting bikes has only recently become an option in Ecuador, and is mainly for short tours, mostly from Quito, Riobamba and Cuenca. The main exception is the Andean town of Baños which has a wonderful paved ride nearby and is therefore full of mountain bike rentals.
Purchase
Bicycles are extremely expensive in Ecuador, and outside of Quito or Guayaquil it is very difficult to find anything even approaching a quality bike. Used bikes are hard to come by.
Ecuador
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