Zarcero

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Introducing Zarcero

North of Naranjo, the road winds for 20km until it reaches Zarcero’s 1736m perch at the western end of the Cordillera Central. The mountains are gorgeous and the climate is famously fresh, but the reason you’ve come is evident as soon as you pull into town.

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Parque Francisco Alvarado, in front of the already off-kilter pink and blue 1895 Iglesia de San Rafael, was just a normal plaza until the 1960s (of course), when gardener Evangelisto Blanco suddenly became inspired to shave the ordinary, mild-mannered bushes into bizarre abstract shapes and, over the years, everything from elephants to bull fights (the latest creation is a double tunnel of surreal, melting arches).

Today the trippy topiary is certainly the town’s top sight, but space-age trees aren’t the only thing growing in Zarcero – this is a center for Costa Rica’s organic-farming movement. You can find unusual varieties of pesticide-free goodies all over town, and the surrounding mountains are just perfect for an afternoon picnic.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009

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