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Introducing N'gaoundéré

N'Gaoundéré is the terminus of the railway line and beginning of the great bus and truck routes to the far north and Chad. The sense of adventure imparted upon reaching the Sahel is helped by the sight of government soldiers – there's a major training facility nearby – striding through the desert lanes with AK-47s strapped to their backs and extra banana claps taped to the stocks of their guns.

Some areas of N'Gaoundéré have a bad reputation for safety at night, including the area around the stadium and north of the cathedral. If in doubt, take a moto-taxi.