Sambor Prei Kuk

Introducing Sambor Prei Kuk

Sambor Prei Kuk (admission US$3), Cambodia’s most impressive group of pre-Angkorian monuments, encompasses more than 100 mainly brick temples scattered through the forest, among them some of the oldest structures in the country. Originally called Isanapura, Sambor Prei Kuk was the capital of Chenla during the reign of the early-7th-century King Isanavarman and continued to be an important learning centre during the Angkorian era.

The main temple area consists of three complexes, each enclosed by the remains of two concentric walls. Their basic layout – a central tower surrounded by shrines, ponds and gates – may have served as an inspiration for the architects of Angkor five centuries later.

Forested and shady, Sambor Prei Kuk has a serene and soothing atmosphere, enhanced by a recent anti-litter campaign, and the sandy paths make for a pleasant stroll. Past the ticket booth, the Isanborei Crafts Shop sells a worthwhile English brochure (2000r), high-quality, hand-crafted basket and wood items, and T-shirts with original designs. Nearby, small eate­ries sell drinks and chicken or beef with rice.

The principle temple group, Prasat Sambor, is dedicated to Gambhireshvara, one of Shiva’s many incarnations (the other groups are dedicated to Shiva himself). Several of Prasat Sambor’s towers retain brick carvings in pretty good condition, and there is a series of large yonis (female fertility symbols) around the central tower that appear to date from a later period, demonstrating the continuity between pre-Angkorian and Angkorian culture.

Prasat Yeay Peau (Prasat Yeai Poeun) is arguably the most atmospheric complex, as it feels lost in the forest. The eastern gateway is being both held up and torn asunder by an ancient tree, the bricks interwoven with the tree’s extensive, probing roots. A truly massive tree shades the western gate.

Prasat Tao (Lion Temple), the largest of the Sambor Prei Kuk structures, boasts two excellent examples of Chenla carving in the form of two large, elaborately coiffed stone lions.

In the early 1970s, Sambor Prei Kuk was bombed by US aircraft in support of the Lon Nol government’s doomed fight against the Khmer Rouge. Some of the craters can still be seen.

Last updated: Jul 22, 2009