The delightful little village of Puthia (pou-tee-ah) is positively bursting at the seams with dilapidated palaces and bewitching temples, and is one of the shining highlights of this part of Bangladesh. If Puthia were in almost any other country the ruins here would be seething with camera-snapping tourists, but lost as it is in the remote paddy fields of Bangladesh, you’ll have it all to yourself.
The vegetation-chocked village is centred on a cheerful bazaar and a number of lily-covered ponds in which people fish, swim and wash themselves, their clothes and their buffalo.
Mr Bishwana, the caretaker of the temples and a gentleman in the truest sense of the word, works directly for the Archaeology Department and makes a charming guide. If he is not hanging around the Shiva Temple someone will quickly ferret him out for you. Even if you don’t want a guide, he is the man with the keys to many of the sights so you will have to find him, or one of his colleagues, anyway.