Shushi

Introducing Shushi

Shushi (Şuşa) stands on a plateau 9km south from Stepanakert, with high walls and views over a wide swathe of central Karabakh. The city was once a centre of Armenian and Azeri art and culture, and during the 19th century it was one of the largest towns in the Caucasus. The city suffered badly during the war and most people left, but recovery is under way.

A fine medieval wall protects the eastern ramparts of the town – you’ll see it on the left as you approach the town from the highway. The fortress was built in 1750 by Panah Khan. The Azeri army used the town heights to fire barrages of Grad missiles down onto Stepanakert and surrounding villages. It was conquered by a stunning night assault up the cliffs on 8–9 May 1992, a crucial turning point in the conflict.

The scarred centre of town has the restored Ghazanchetsots Cathedral, the obvious white church near the Hotel Shoushi. Another church, the 1818 Kanach Zham (green church) stands up the hill.

Down the hill, in the older part of town, is a damaged mosque that is slowly being restored. The museum (3 19 48), about 350m south of the mosque, is also under renovation. Near the Shushi Municipality building are several old buildings, including a one-time Russian church that was later converted into a cinema, as well as the residence of the Panah Khan.

Jerderduz, a grazing land for horses, is 1km south of the mosque on the edge of a beautiful gorge. The little red flags sticking out of the field do not denote the location of landmines – these are actually holes on Karabakh’s only golf course (3 15 41; 9a Amirian Poghots; per round AMD5000, club rental AMD1600); contact Hrachick Haritiounian. One of the most surreal sights in Karabakh occurs every second morning in summer when an 86-year-old Belgian doctor named John Malcolm comes here to play a round of golf. He welcomes golf partners, but note that only right-handed clubs are available.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009