In arid country some 100km west of Gregory Downs lies this prehistoric oasis of gorges, ancient rainforest, crystal-clear green waters, creeks and tropical vegetation that indigenous Australians have enjoyed for perhaps 30, 000 years. Remains of their paintings and camp sites are everywhere, and you can visit two rock-art sites.
In the southern part of the park is the World Heritage–listed Riversleigh Fossil Field. Some of the fossils are up to 25 million years old and include everything from giant snakes to carnivorous kangaroos.
Boodjamulla has 20km of walking tracks and an excellent national-park camping ground (13 13 04, 07-4748 5572; www.epa.qld.gov.au; per person/family $4.50/18) with tables, toilets and showers. You must book well in advance with the park rangers (April to September). Paddling up the creek gives a wondrous perspective of the gorge and swimming near the waterfalls is heavenly. Hire canoes from Adels Grove.
Adels Grove (07-4748 5502; www.adelsgrove.com.au; unpowered sites $20, family $22, s/d $95/160) eco-sensitive tourist park is 10km east of the Lawn Hill entrance, set in lush surrounds by the park’s creek. In addition to camp sites, there are permanent tents with beds and linen. Rates at these include dinner and breakfast. Fuel, basic groceries and tent hire are also available.
Kingfisher Camp (07-4745 8212; www.kingfisherresort.com.au; unpowered sites $16) is 142km north from Boodjamulla and 33km from Bowthorn Station Homestead. It has 30 grassy camp sites maintained by caretakers; all drinking water here must be boiled. Half-day boat hire is $50.