Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano

Introducing Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano

Named for the Selk’nam word meaning ‘like a heart, ’ Tolhuin (population 2000) is a lake town nestled in the center of Tierra del Fuego, 132km south of Río Grande and 104km northeast of Ushuaia via smooth pavement. This fast-growing frontier town of small plazas and sheltering evergreens fronts the eastern shore of Lago Fagnano, also known as Lago Kami. Most travelers tend to skip right over it, but if you are looking for a unique and tranquil spot, Tolhuin is well worth checking out.

Shared with Chile, the glacial-formed Lago Fagnano offers 117km of beach, with most of its shoreline remote and roadless. Plans to put a catamaran here are developing; look for this new cruising option, which might be combined with trekking on the far side of the lake. Otherwise, there is boating and fishing.

Tolhuin’s nascent tourist office (492380, 492125; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/tolhuin; Av de los Shelknam 80), behind the gas station, has information on local tours and rentals. Those coming from Ushuaia might get more complete information from Ushuaia’s tourist office. Banco Tierra del Fuego (Calle s/n) has an ATM.

Sleeping & Eating

Camping Hain (02901-15-603606; www.campinghain.com.ar; Lago Fagnano; camping per person AR$10, 8-person refugios AR$130) Located on Lago Fagnano, this excellent campground offers grassy sites sheltered with wooden windbreaks, a huge barbecue pit and a fogon (sheltered firepit and kitchen area). There are bathrooms and showers with hot water. Roberto, the conscientious owner, can recommend local excursions and guides.

La Posada de los Ramirez (02901-492382/492110; Av de los Shelknam 411, Tolhuin; dm AR$45, 4-person cabin AR$150; ) This welcoming family lodging sits in the center of town. The family’s onsite restaurant (mains AR$30) serves pasta, local trout and meat dishes.

Hostería Kaikén (492372; www.hosteriakaiken.com.ar; Lago Fagnano, Km 2942; d AR$235-290, 2-person cabin AR$175; ) This gorgeous lakeside inn is both refined and rustic, with beautiful colonial furniture, neutral tones and snug down bedcovers. There’s a stylish bar with panoramas of the lake and a dining room serving high-end cuisine. The cabins (without kitchens) are simpler but provide an extra dose of privacy.

Panadería La Unión (492202; www.panaderialaunion.com.ar in Spanish; Jeujepen 450, Tolhuin; snacks AR$3; 24hr) First-rate facturas (pastries) and second-rate Nescafé cappuccinos keep this roadside attraction hopping. You may or may not recognize the Argentine celebrities gracing the walls (hint: the men are ageing rock stars, the women surgically enhanced). Buses break here to pick up passengers and hot water for mate (a tealike beverage). There are also public phones, internet access and newsstand fodder.

Within walking distance of the panadería are Capricho Bar and Pizza, restaurant La Amistad, and a parrilla (steak restaurant) firing up loads of lamb.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009