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Introducing Río Grande
A monster trout sculpture at the entrance to town announces that you have come to the de facto fly-fishing capital of Tierra del Fuego, with some of the world’s best blue-ribbon angling for colossal sea-run trout. Exclusive fly-in lodges on nearby estancias lure the likes of Hollywood heavy hitters and former US presidents with dreams of the big one. But if you didn’t come with rod in hand, the longest that you will likely stay in windswept Río Grande is a few hours, before hopping on a bus to Ushuaia, 230km southwest.
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Río Grande has always had a prominent role in Fuegian history. In 1886 the villainous gold seeker Julius Popper stumbled across the mouth of the Río Grande, home to Selk’nam (or Ona) people. As wool baron José Menéndez’ sheep stations developed, it became a growing makeshift service town. In 1893 the Salesian order, under the guidance of Monseñor Fagnano, set up a mission in an unsuccessful attempt to shelter the Selk’nam from the growing infringement.
As a petroleum service center, Río Grande has an industrial feel: even the public art looks like giant, grim tinker toys. Duty-free status, meant to foster local development, has brought in electronics manufacturing plants and wholesale appliance stores. In the Falklands War the military played an important role here; many memorials around town pay tribute to fallen soldiers.
Last updated: Jul 22, 2009
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