Iruya

Introducing Iruya

There’s something magical about Iruya, a remote village just 50km from the main road but a world away. It makes a great destination to relax for a few days, and also allows proper appreciation of the Quebrada de Humahuaca ­region away from the busy barreling highway.

The journey is worth the trip in itself. Turning off RN 9, 26km north of Humahuaca, the ripio road ascends to a spectacular 4000m pass that marks the Jujuy–Salta provincial boundary. Here, there’s a massive apacheta (a cairn that accumulates stone by stone, left by travelers for luck). The plastic bottles are from liquid offerings to Pachamama.

The road then winds down into another valley, where smallholders farm potatoes, onions and beans, and reaches Iruya, with its pretty yellow-and-blue church, steep streets, adobe houses and spectacular mountainscapes (with soaring condors). It’s an indigenous community with fairly traditional values, so respect is called for. Chatting with the friendly locals is the highlight of most travelers’ experiences here. You can also trek in the surrounding hills – ask for a local guide – or visit other communities in the valley. In 2007, one of these, Colanzulí, was eagerly anticipating the arrival of electricity to the village. It was planning to build accommodations for travelers once the power was on – ask if there’s any when you visit.

Iruya has a tourist office on Calle San Martín, but opening hours are irregular.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009