Siavonga, the main town and resort along the Zambian side of Lake Kariba, has a location to be envied. Set among hills and verdant greenery, just a few kilometres from the massive Kariba Dam, views of the lake pop up from many vantage points, especially from the lodges. Built up primarily in the 1960s and '70s, it can at times appear as if no architects, builders or designers have visited since. Set up primarily for the conference/business market and wealthy urban Zambians (especially from Lusaka) who tear down here towing their sleek boats and stay in their vacation bungalows, independent travellers without their own wheels might not find enough upside to offset the challenges of a visit.