Most guests of the top-end lodges/camps fly in on chartered planes, particularly those staying in the northern Busanga Plains part of the park.
Given there's a tarmac road passing through the centre of the park, you can easily catch a Mongu-bound bus here from Lusaka (ZMW120, 3½ hours). On the highway ask to be let off either near Mukambi Safari Lodge (contact Mukambi for pick up; only a couple hundred metres away wildlife roams free) or Mayukuyuku (arrange pick-up from the highway for US$35). For a ride back to Lusaka, wait out by Hook Bridge or the stop by Mukambi between 11am and 11.30am. Juldan or Shalom are two of the more recommendable bus companies.
Alternatively, take the slow daily bus, or one of the more regular minibuses from Lusaka to Itezhitezhi village (ZMW75, four hours). From the village bus stop wait around for a lift (because of the number of wild animals, it's not safe to hike).
Be aware that the tsetse flies in the park are horrendous, so it pays to have air-conditioning so you can close the windows.
There are several gates, but the main ones are: Nalusanga Gate (200km from Lusaka), along the eastern boundary; Dundumwezi Gate for the southern sector, accessed from the town of Kalomo if coming from Livingstone or Choma; Kabanga Gate if entering or exiting from the north and Tateyoyo Gate for either sector if you’re coming from the west. Rangers are also stationed at the two park headquarters: one at Chunga Camp and another 8km south of Musa Gate, at the southern end of Lake Itezhi-Tezhi.
For those heading south from the main road, the newly upgraded Spinal Rd is by far the best option. Accessible year-round, it heads south via the western bank of the Kafue River. While theoretically you can travel here by 2WD (at least in the dry season), a 4WD is by far preferable, especially given road conditions can deteriorate over a short period of time. If coming from Lusaka it's accessed off the Lusaka–Mongu highway about 10km after the Kafue Hook Bridge (or 82km from Nalusanga Gate); look for the sign to Chunga. The road heads south past Kasabushi Camp and continues around the western shoreline of Lake Itezhi-Tezhi to Hippo Camp and then southwards to Nanzhila Plains Camp. To get to the lodges along the eastern side of the Kafue River, you'll have to take a boat trip across (inclusive in the rates); otherwise from June to November there's a very rough, though scenic, dirt track that mostly hugs the eastern bank of the river. This road also heads all the way to Lake Itezhi-Tezhi and the accommodation there. Another option is the Itezhi Tezhi turnoff (around 30km west of Nalusanga Gate), where a graded road leads southwest towards Lake Itezhi-Tezhi – best accessed by a 4WD with high clearance. Just past Itezhitezhi village is Musa Gate, from where the road crosses Lake Itezhi-Tezhi to the New Kalala Camp and on to the rest of the southern sector of the park.
Heading west along the main road from Lusaka, you'll find a main track leading to up to Busanga Plains in northern sector of the park on the western side of Kafue Hook Bridge.
Note to get to the camps in the northeast of the park by road, you'll need to pass through the small bustling town of Mumbwa, your last chance to refuel. From here it's a bumpy, but manageable dirt road.
The other option for fuel close to the park is the township of Itezhitezhi in the southern sector of the park; however, it's unwise to rely 100% on this option. Here petrol is only sold mid-week from 9am to 5pm, and you'll need to prepay at the Zesco office here before filling up.