Alfama, Lisbon

With its labyrinthine alleyways, hidden courtyards and curving, shadow-filled lanes, the Alfama is a magical place to lose all sense of direction and delve into the soul of the Portuguese capital. On the journey, you'll pass bread-box-sized grocers, brilliantly tiled buildings and cosy taverns filled with easygoing chatter, with the aroma of chargrilled sardines and the mournful rhythms of fado drifting in the breeze. Then you round a bend and catch sight of steeply pitched rooftops leading down to the glittering river, the Tejo.