Must-see restaurants in West Africa

  • L'Atelier

    Cotonou

    Considered by some connoisseurs to be one of the most refined restaurants in town, with excellent French and fusion cuisine, and an ambience that's as…

  • Mami Wata

    Brazzaville

    Hands down Brazza's best restaurant, the 'Mermaid' has the best and breeziest river terrace in town, and attracts a wealthy crowd of locals and expats…

  • La Paillote

    Yaoundé

    This stylish Vietnamese restaurant has a charming shaded terrace and a smart dining room inside, both of which attract a loyal crowd of Yaoundé expats…

  • Kactus Restaurant

    Republic of Congo

    This excellent Pointe-Noire institution in the heart of downtown has a large and high-quality menu. Choices run from excellent salads and pasta dishes to…

  • Chez Clarisse

    Cotonou

    This small French restaurant, in a pretty residential area next to the US embassy, is a perennial favourite that churns out excellent French and local…

  • La Belle Époque

    Lomé

    One of Lomé's finest tables, La Belle Époque – all crisp white tablecloths and dimmed lighting – serves a refined, French-inspired cuisine. You can enjoy…

  • Indigo

    Lagos

    Subtly flavoured Indian food served in a refined atmosphere in lovely metal dishes. There's a picture window onto the traditional clay oven, where fresh…

  • Maman Aimé

    Cotonou

    This is a super atmospheric Beninese maquis (rustic open-air restaurant) with little more than a few wooden benches and tables under a corrugated iron…

  • Le Nandjelet

    Abidjan

    Tucked away in Blokosso (opposite the cemetery), this enchanting local spot offers good kedjenou (slowly simmered chicken or fish with peppers and…

  • Le Mechoui

    Abidjan

    In an elegant setting that overlooks the lagoon, Le Mechoui serves fantastic Lebanese food. All the ingredients are fresh, the taste is top-notch, and the…

  • Maquis Aboussouan

    Ouagadougou

    This upmarket maquis (rustic, open-air restaurant) is the place to enjoy Burkinabé and Ivoirian staples such as poulet kedjenou (slow-cooked chicken with…

  • Centre Grill

    Togo

    An attractive place with a straw roof, wicker light shades and blackboard menus, Centre Grill serves divine Togolese food and good Western dishes. Try its…

  • Chez Haregua

    Ouagadougou

    If you want to give your taste buds a sensuous treat, go for this Ethiopian choice – the excellent alicha doro (turmeric chicken) is served with the…

  • Le Calypso

    Burkina Faso

    Run by the same jovial Franco-Burkinabé family as Le Calypso hotel, this popular restaurant is a wonderful place for tasty, slow-cooked fish, marinated…

  • La Tissayade

    Nouakchott

    Easily the restaurant with the best atmosphere in the city, La Tissayade is located in the shady front courtyard of Maison d'Hôtes Jeloua. Daily specials…

  • La Canne d'Or

    Burkina Faso

    This villa-style eatery, with its African decor and riot of fairy lights, serves French fare with an African twist. House faves include frogs' legs and a…

  • Aboussouan

    Abidjan

    Take Côte d'Ivoire's best maquis dishes, ask top chefs to prepare them and add fine, innovative touches – that's Aboussouan. Foodie heaven, and there's an…

  • Le Verdoyant

    Ouagadougou

    A favourite haunt of expats, the ultracentral Le Verdoyant is famous for its pasta, wood-fired pizzas and ice creams. Note that the mosquitoes are…

  • La Plazza

    Cameroon

    Something of a N'Gaoundéré institution, this place has live music nightly and cold draught beer from the thatched bar. The Lebanese and pasta dishes are…

  • Patagonia

    Accra

    Beef lovers will feel at home in this elegant steakhouse and seafood grill on the ground floor of West Africa’s tallest building. Imported from South…

  • Auntie Muni Waakye

    Accra

    Waakye (a mix of beans and rice served with spaghetti, meat or fish stew, boiled eggs and lots of hot shito pepper sauce) is Ghana’s most popular street…

  • Outside view, Burger & Relish

    Burger & Relish

    Accra

    Gourmet burgers have come to Accra in this hip, industrial restaurant, which doubles as a trendy cocktail bar in the evenings, and a family-friendly…

  • Le Djembé

    Dakar

    A block west of Pl de l'Indépendance, this inviting, colourful eatery is the whispered insider-tip for anyone in search of a filling platter of…

  • O Curral

    Santo Antão

    Along the road in the tiny settlement of Chã João Vaz is O Curral, known to locals as Alfred's, a straw-roofed restaurant, farm shop and grogue distillery…

  • La Chaumière

    Accra

    There's stiff competition these days, but La Chaumière remains one of Accra's best and fanciest restaurants. It excels in old-school elegance, with soft…

  • Chuck's Bar & Restaurant

    Ghana

    You won't see many locals in here, but as far as expat havens go, this is a good one. A wood-burning pizza oven produces excellent pizzas and the menu…

  • Chandinho

    Boa Vista

    An elegant spot that specialises in hot stone cooking – flavourful meat, fish or vegetables grilled up at your tableside. Large grilled prawns, grouper…

  • Nautilus

    Mindelo

    Near the waterfront, Nautilus has an open-air courtyard with a sizzling grill where you can get tasty plates of char-grilled tuna, grouper, octopus,…

  • Mama's

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    Mama's is a long-running institution in Fajara, with a huge menu of satisfying comfort food: brochettes, grilled fish, schnitzel, spaghetti, salads and…

  • Gida's Garden

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    This hidden oasis tucked one block south of the Atlantic Blvd is best known for its delectably prepared grilled meats (grilled T-bone, barbecue ribs),…

  • Mamba Point Lagoonda

    Sierra Leone

    Mamba Point is one of Freetown's most popular (and expensive) restaurants. Come for dinner in the chic dining room, or just to sink a few cocktails and…

  • El Sol

    Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts

    One of the best eateries in the Senegambia area, El Sol spreads a Latin feast, with enchiladas, quesadillas and fajitas, plus a first-rate grilled red…

  • Le Bideew

    Dakar

    In the cool shade of the garden of the Institut Français Léopold Sédar Senghor, this colourful arts cafe is perfect for a break from the city. The varied…

  • O Pirata

    São Tomé

    Enjoying the best location in the city, the Pirate is little more than a deck perched on a crashing sea wall, facing a rusting shipwreck barely 100m…

  • Blue Marlin

    Boa Vista

    On Sal Rei's main square, this matchbox-sized restaurant with checked tablecloths and graffiti-covered walls serves some of the island's best seafood…

  • Churrasqueira Dragoeiro

    Cabo Verde

    Follow the scent of fresh barbecue and the wafts of smoke pluming overhead at this famous, open-sided grill-house in Achada de Santo António. It's a very…

  • Estendera Vivier Beach

    Dakar

    A charming little eatery with tables overlooking the crashing waves, Estendera has a small, well-executed menu of seafood, grilled meats and Italian…

  • Casa Maracujá

    Santo Antão

    This charming open-air rooftop eatery with mountain views serves up some of the island's best cooking, with delicious, locally sourced ingredients…

  • Utonde Beach Club

    Rio Muni

    This is one of two beach resorts in Utonde and was about to open at the time of our visit. It's very stylish, with thatched umbrellas set around a large…

  • Restaurant Farid

    Dakar

    Squeezed between grey inner-city walls, this little oasis serves the best Lebanese meze in town, plus quality grilled meat and fish. You'll also find…