There are about 20 forts that you can explore here today, and who knows how many that have yet to be discovered (the ‘Fifty Fortresses’ moniker is an approximation). The most impressive qalas are the hilltop Ayaz-Qala and the historically significant Toprak Qala. Other forts such as Guldursun and Janbas Qalas are interesting mainly for the scale of their defensive walls.
Most people visit the region on a day or half-day excursion from Khiva, though it is possible to overnight at a yurt camp beside Ayaz-Qala (and sometimes Toprak Qala).
Most day trippers book lunch at the Ayaz-Qala yurt camp or grab a chaikhana lunch at Boston (Bustan).