Un-notch the belt: the cornbread, collard greens, meatloaf and other soul-food dishes at this bare-bones joint come in enormous portions. Not that hungry? Stop in for a piece of hummingbird (banana-pineapple) cake. Sit at the counter to be immersed in the before-U-St-became-gentrified crowd. It's a great slice of local life. A spacious dining room hides upstairs. Alas, service can be slow.