Little Serow has no phone, no reservations and no sign on the door. It only seats groups of four or fewer (larger parties will be separated), but despite all this, people line up around the block. And what for? Superlative Northern Thai cuisine. The single-option menu – which consists of six or so hot-spiced courses – changes by the week.

You might get chicken livers and long peppers, or shrimp paste, eggplant and chilies. Every dish comes with mountains of fresh herbs.