Visiting ghosts of the past in these 6 US cemeteries
The best way to get to know a city is to meet some longtime residents, the folks who have been there for a really long time – like a couple centuries or so.
Haunting graveyards while still on this side of the afterlife is a great way to connect with characters from the past, and the rich histories of many great American cities can be found in their cemeteries. Here’s six we recommend, some livelier than you might expect.
Headstones at the Old Dutch Burial Ground in Sleepy Hollow date back centuries © Evan Godt / Lonely Planet
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Sleepy Hollow, NY
Just upstream on the Hudson River from NYC lies Sleepy Hollow, setting for Washington Irving’s iconic 19th-century story “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow.” According to the tale, the specter of a headless horsemen stalks the woods here, while being supernaturally bound from crossing a bridge near an old Dutch burial ground.
Visitors today won’t be able to find such a bridge (don’t let imposters in the area fool you, as whichever wooden bridge inspired Irving would’ve rotted away long ago), but you can indeed inspect 300-year-old headstones in the burial ground at the real-life Old Dutch Church before taking an eerily calm stroll through the adjacent – and much larger – Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. Pay your respects to Irving himself, who was buried here in 1859.
Notable permanent residents
Washington Irving (1783–1859), author
Andrew Carnegie (1835–1919), steel magnate
William Rockefeller (1841–1922), oil magnate
Statue of Johnny Ramone at Hollywood Forever Cemetery © Mark Read / Lonely Planet
Hollywood Forever Cemetery, Hollywood, CA
Resting beneath swaying palm trees, some of the biggest names in showbiz are buried here, often in an oversized mausoleum or beneath a life-size statue of their likeness. Snag a map at the flower shop to get your bearings.
Aside from gawking at memorials to the stars, the site hosts events more commonly found in urban parks rather than cemeteries. Catch outdoor screenings of classic films in the summer or take in a concert at the cemetery’s Masonic Lodge. And yes, there’s even a raucous Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) festival befitting of the surrounds.
Notable permanent residents
Judy Garland (1922 – 1969), actress
Cecil B DeMille (1881 – 1959), director
Mel Blanc (1908 – 1989), comedian and voice actor
Take a stroll past the James Renwick-designed chapel at Oak Hill Cemetery © Carol M. Highsmith / Buyenlarge / Getty Images
Oak Hill Cemetery, Washington, DC
In 1862, president Abraham Lincoln tragically lost his son Willie to typhoid, and was reportedly driven by grief to enter a mausoleum at this cemetery in the nation’s capital to hold the boy’s body a final time. This somber image stuck with author George Saunders and inspired him to write the bestselling 2017 novel Lincoln in the Bardo, which in turn has the novel’s fans trekking to Oak Hill Cemetery to see the setting for themselves.
In addition to the modern literary connection, the burial ground is notable for its gatehouse and chapel, designed by renowned architect James Renwick, who also designed St Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City (and who himself is buried in the next entry on this list…)
Notable permanent residents
Katharine Meyer Graham (1917 – 2001), first female publisher of a major American newspaper
Edward Douglass White (1845 – 1921), Chief Justice of the United States
Edwin Stanton (1814 – 1869), Lincoln’s Secretary of War
Green-Wood's Victorian gatehouse makes for a dramatic welcome to the cemetery © Evan Godt / Lonely Planet
Green-Wood Cemetery, Brooklyn, NY
You’d think the cacophony of sounds in New York City could raise the dead, but to our knowledge, those interred amid the peace and quiet of historic Green-Wood Cemetery have yet to be stirred. Join the half million souls buried here for a pleasant walk past tombs and mausoleums to the highest point in Brooklyn.
The high ground was the setting for 1776 Battle of Long Island, where the Continental Army clashed with British troops, and the event is commemorated by a 7ft statue of Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom. In addition to that slice of history, the cemetery is the final resting place of too many notable people to count. Two-hour trolley tours are available Wednesday and Sunday afternoons to help visitors take it all in.
Notable permanent residents
James Renwick (1818–1885), architect
Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960–1988), artist
Isabella Goodwin (1865–unknown), first female NYPD detective
The iconic mausoleums in St Louis Cemetery No 1 are a major tourist draw in New Orleans © DnDavis / Shutterstock
St Louis Cemetery No 1, New Orleans, LA
The oldest of a trio of burial grounds bearing the St Louis name, this cemetery is a spooky top sight in New Orleans and great for tapping into the history of the Big Easy. The distinctive look of the cemetery is due to the shallow water table, which made it a necessity to inter the remains of early Creoles in above-ground tombs, many in a distinctive Greek-Revival style.
Among the tombs you’ll spot is that of “Voodoo Queen” Marie Laveau, a must-see for those intrigued by the occult. Rumors told that Laveau would grant wishes if a visitor drew an “X” on her tomb, spun three times, and knocked on the tomb. Unfortunately, a vandal – perhaps even an overzealous Laveau devotee wishing to provide a blank slate for more wishes – covered the tomb in pink latex paint. Since then, cemetery visitation has been limited to relatives of those buried there and those on approved tours. We recommend arranging a visit through the nonprofit Save Our Cemeteries.
Notable permanent residents
Marie Laveau (1801 – 1881), Voodoo Queen
Étienne de Boré (1741 – 1820), first mayor of New Orleans following Louisiana Purchase
Homer Plessy (1862 – 1925), of the Plessy v Ferguson Supreme Court decision
The views at this Oakland cemetery are tough to beat © jmoor17 / Getty Images
Mountain View Cemetery, Oakland, CA
East Bay’s Mountain View Cemetery delivers on its name, offering a great vantage point to take in Oakland and, on a clear day, San Francisco’s skyline.
The serene, park-like surroundings were designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, the architect famous for his work on NYC’s Central Park, Mount Royal Park in Montreal, and dozens of other notable parks and university campuses.
Notable permanent residents
J A Folger (1835 – 1889), founder of Folgers Coffee
Domingo Ghirardelli (1817 – 1894), founder of Ghirardelli Chocolate Company
Time will take its toll on grave markers all on its own, so refrain from touching them and making deterioration worse © Evan Godt / Lonely Planet
A word on etiquette
Cemeteries are fascinating places to visit, just be mindful of the rules when on hallowed ground. In addition to the obvious things like being respectful of those there to mourn and not standing directly on a resting place, you should also refrain from touching headstones or monuments and check for any posted rules specific to the cemetery you’re visiting. While some allow for group activities – Green-Wood Cemetery, among others, has been known to host yoga classes – others are more strict or formal.
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