Gimmickry is for amateurs – Zuni has been turning basic menu items into gourmet staples since 1979. Reservations and fat wallets are handy for oyster-and-martini lunches, but the see-and-be-seen seating is a kick and simple signatures beyond reproach: Caesar salad with house-cured anchovies, brick-oven-roasted free-range chicken for two with Tuscan bread salad, and mesquite-grilled organic-beef burgers on focaccia (shoestring fries $6 extra).