Japanese in Nob Hill & Russian Hill

Pioneering sushi chefs Kin Lui and Raymond Ho rescue the oceans with sustainable delicacies: silky Arctic char drizzled with yuzu-citrus replaces at-risk wild salmon; the Golden State roll is a local hero, featuring spicy, line-caught scallop, Pacific tuna, organic-apple slivers and edible 24-karat gold. It's tiny, off the beaten path and accepts no reservations, but the quality is way better than in Japantown.