Even before winning back-to-back James Beard Awards, State Bird attracted lines for 5:30pm seatings not seen since the Dead played neighbouring Fillmore Auditorium. The draw is a thrilling play on dim sum, wildly inventive with seasonal-regional ingredients and esoteric flavors, like fennel pollen or garum. Plan to order multiple dishes. Book exactly 60 days ahead.

Also consider a table at The Progress, the adjacent family-style banquet restaurant by the same team, where you order six courses to share. It too won a James Beard Award (Best Restaurant West, 2015), and is equally sublime – and hard to book. As of this writing, they accepted reservations 30 days ahead, but were considering extending bookings further out: check website for current details.