Rich Table

Californian in The Haight & Hayes Valley

Impossible cravings begin at Rich Table, inventor of porcini doughnuts, miso-marrow-stuffed pasta and fried-chicken madeleines with caviar. Married co-chefs and owners Sarah and Evan Rich playfully riff on seasonal California fare, freestyling with whimsical off-menu amuse-bouches like trippy beet marshmallows or the Dirty Hippie: nutty hemp atop silky goat-buttermilk pannacotta, as offbeat and entrancing as Hippie Hill drum circles.

For maximum surprise factor, get the $95 chef's menu plus the optional $75 wine pairing. Book two to four weeks ahead online or call the restaurant directly – otherwise you'll need to arrive before 5:30pm to bide your time at the barn-wood bar, and hope for an opening before the California wine on tap runs dry.