Join early risers for shots of Illy espresso and crostata (jam tart), or wander in at night between bars and Beach Blanket Babylon for torta di mandorla (almond-meal tart with layer of jam) and chocolate-chip-ricotta cannoli. Twice-baked, extra-crunchy biscotti are an acquired taste for non-Italians – try dunking them in vin santo – but pine-nut-studded chewy pignoli cookies are cross-cultural crowd-pleasers.