Entire beach vacations are condensed into chef Matthew Kirkley's artful nine-course modern seafood menu. Expect waves of surf, with scant turf – a truffle here, bone marrow there, sunny splashes of California citrus everywhere. Seasonal standouts include Dungeness crab, fluke with caviar, and – nodding to North Beach – mussels morphed into cannoli. Lavish wine pairings ($180); 20% service added.