Top choice californian in Nob Hill & Russian Hill

A converted chapel is a fitting location for a meal that'll turn Italian culinary purists into true believers in Cal-Italian cuisine. Chef Suzette Gresham's generous pastas and ingenious seasonal meat dishes include heavenly quail salad, devilish lobster panzerotti (turnover) and venison loin chops. Suave maître d'hôtel Giancarlo Paterlini indulges every whim, even providing black-linen napkins if you're worried about lint.

An anteroom where brides once steadied their nerves is now lined with limited-production Italian vintages.