Top choice californian

in Nob Hill & Russian Hill

A converted chapel is a fitting location for feasts that turn Italian culinary purists into true believers in Cal-Italian cuisine. Chef Suzette Gresham's ingenious handmade pastas and seasonal signatures include heavenly abalone risotto, devilish lamb with sweetbreads, and truffled squab canneloni that deserve angelic choir accompaniment. An anteroom where brides once steadied their nerves is now lined with limited-production Italian vintages seldom seen outside Tuscan castles.