Italian in The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers

Even before A16 won a James Beard Award, it was hard to book, but persevere: the house-made mozzarella burrata, blister-crusted pizzas from the wood-burning oven and 15-page Italian wine list make it worth your while. Skip the spotty desserts and instead double up on adventurous appetizers, including house-cured salumi.