Other restaurants come and go, but this place has been in this busy adobe with hardwood booths since the 1970s. While you wait to be seated, watch the staff turn out tortillas. Then enjoy machaca (shredded beef with eggs, onions and peppers), carnitas and Mexican ribs. For breakfast: chilaquiles (tortilla chips with salsa or mole, broiled or grilled with cheese).
If the carpet has seen better days, that only lends authenticity.