Top choice modern american in Providence

With a background at Noma in Copenhagen and the fabulous Dorrance at the Biltmore, chef Benjamin Sukle and his wife, Heidi, have their own place: the understated, but fabulously good, birch. Its intimate size and style (seating is around a U-shaped bar) means attention to detail is exacting in both the decor and the food, which focuses on underutilized, small-batch and hyper-seasonal produce.