Transatlantic super-chef Marcus Samuelsson laces upscale comfort food with a world of flavors at his effortlessly cool, swinging brasserie. Like the work of the contemporary New York–based artists displayed on the walls, dishes are up to date: mac ’n’ cheese joins forces with lobster, blackened catfish pairs with pickled mango, and spectacular Swedish meatballs salute Samuelsson’s home country.

The prix-fixe lunch is a bargain at $25.