Okonomi & Yuji Ramen

Japanese in Brooklyn: Williamsburg, Greenpoint & Bushwick

For a dazzling breakfast that doesn't involve eggs or French toast, make a pilgrimage to this exquisite little wood-lined eatery in East Williamsburg, called Okonomi by day. Only set menus are served: a small vegetable dish, baked egg, seven-grain rice and tender fish (such as salt-roasted tuna or miso-marinaded mackerel), accompanied by a tasty green tea with barley – perfection.

On weekday evenings, it operates under the name Yuji Ramen and serves several different kinds of ramen, with equally fine attention to detail. Most seafood is sourced from the East Coast, and nothing goes to waste (fish bones and head are simmered for ramen stock). No reservations are accepted for either Okonomi or Yuji – just show up and take your chance.

A recent development is an eight-course omakase tasting meal ($140 per person) on Saturday nights. Reservations for this are required well in advance and they fill up quickly, so get on the restaurant's email list for advance notice of when bookings are opening up.