Larb Ubol

Thai in Midtown

Petite pastel parasols are among the few design concessions at this low-frills joint. But you're here for the fresh, jumping flavors of northeastern Thailand. Drool over larb (spicy ground-meat salad), brilliant nam tok nuer (grilled beef with lime, fish sauce and palm sugar), and unexpected concoctions like pla dook pad ped (stir-fried catfish with Thai eggplant, peppercorn, basil, ginger and spicy curry paste).