Ramen in West Village, Chelsea & Meatpacking District

This tiny, ultra-modern ramen joint whips up delectably flavored noodle bowls, in variants of pork shoulder, spicy miso or uni mushroom (with sea urchin). Don't skip the appetizers: the yellowtail ceviche and barbecue pork buns are outstanding. Service is speedy, and it's fun to watch the adroit prep team in action in the tiny kitchen at center stage.

The wait can be long – go early to beat the crowds.