Many of Astoria's Greek restaurants are standard grill joints. Bahari branches out with the full range of casseroles and stews: moussaka with crusty-creamy bechamel, velvety slow-cooked beans, spinach-flecked rice. A meal of these rich dishes is a bargain, especially in the elegant surroundings. (Note: fish is pricier.) Excellent staff and plenty of room, compared with most NYC restaurants.