In the Italian American New Orleans community, funerals were followed by a visit to this institution for turtle soup. The menu may be conservative, but when you’ve been around for more than 100 years you stick to what you know. In this case that’s Sicilian Louisiana food: trout almandine, red beans and veal cutlets, and bell peppers stuffed with macaroni and meat.

The dining room is as historic as any building in the city and just as crucial to its culture.