They change the menu twice daily, but if they offer it, order the shrimp and grits: it's rich and buttery, with chunks of andouille sausage, okra and two king prawns. Their burrata melts with tang, the yellow-tail collar is crisp and moist, and the bacon-wrapped rabbit sausage will wow you.

They even have a water list, which would normally be worthy of ridicule, but it's actually kind of amazing. In LA, seldom does a restaurant blessed with as golden a location as this one – on the plaza of LA's best museum – live up to the address. Ray's does.